Buckram Frame Hat

This is a buckram frame hat that I made and designed for my 468-R Millinery and footwear class in Fall of 2013 at BYU taught by Deanne DeWitt. The fame is buckram, and the fabric is cut on the bias, the small flowers on the back are made from ribbon, the feathers are dyed burgundy ostrich feathers, and the jewelry piece on the front is made from odds and ends I had. This hat is modeled by Ashley.

Sarah Stewart

Instructor Deanne Dewitt

TMA 468-R Millinery

17 December 2013

Construction

Supplies: Black fabric, blue flannel, double buckram, spray glue, ostrich feathers from Fancyfeather.com, jewelry pieces, purple fabric, black ribbon, leather needles, wire, leather thimble, and bias tape.

Directions:

1.      Obtain supplies.

2.      Trace pattern out on the buckram. Make sure that center back and center front are on the bias. Add seam allowance only on the inner circle of the brim. Use a half inch seam allowance.

3.      Cut out buckram.

4.      Sew wire on outer edge of buckram brim. This can be done with the zigzag stitch on a sewing machine.

5.      Sew wire on to the top and bottom of the buckram crown.

6.      Trace pattern out the lining fabric and cut. Add a half inch of seam allowance on all pieces. Only do one of each pattern piece.

7.      Sew lining of crown to buckram facing outward with bias tape on the top and bottom.

8.      Sew lining to top of brim, using bias tape on the outer edges.

9.      Sew brim into its round shape at center back.

10.  Sew tip to brim using whip stitch.

11.  Now cut out fashion black fabric on the bias. Cut two of every piece and be sure to add seam allowance of a half inch, with an inch as the brim’s inner circle seam allowance.

12.  First sew the tip fabric to the lined buckram tip using stab stitch. Make sure the bias is on the line from center front to center back.

13.  Now sew the fabric crown to the buckram so that no stitches are visible. Leave the bottom edge alone. Only sew the top part, covering the stitches from the tip.

14.  Now, sew the top brim to the brim on the outer edges of the buckram, after shaping the brim into the desired finished look. Make sure it is on the bias, and hide all stitches by sewing the top one on, then add the gathered or pleated band around the edges and sew it in place using the other brim piece, so that the two are being sewed on at the same time and the brim is totally covered on the top and bottom.

15.  Now, cut the inner circle seam allowance to make little flaps an inch thick all the way around. Bend these upwards.

16.  Sew brim to crown using stab stitch, and pushing the extra fabric of seam allowance inside. Make stitches as invisible as possible.

17.  Now, sew the inner fabric tip to the inner fabric crown. Mine were cut on the bias, but I would advise these not to be so that they fit better. Now, use spray glue on the inside of the buckram. Make sure it is not wet so that it does not bleed through the fabric.

18.  Glue inner pieces in place.

19.  Turn edge of fabric under, and sew to outer brim area. Hide stitches.

20.  Now, add any desired decorations, such as feathers, ribbons, and jewelry pieces. Refer to picture for inspiration.